Sweets from the Sweet / Billy's Bakery - February 2004

Billy's Bakery
184 9th Avenue
NY, NY 10011
212/647-9953

For those of you looking for that little something special for your honey this Valentine's Day, why not stop by Billy's Bakery, the newest hot spot for sweet tooths in Chelsea. From the pristine décor, reminiscent of a cheery 1950's kitchen, to the amazing array of old-fashioned homestyle desserts, Billy's Bakery combines the perfect atmosphere with equally perfect foods. Even more sweet than the lemon bars and coconut cream pie is Billy Reece himself-the owner, general manager, and namesake of the bakery. The 25 year-old baking impresario is one of the nicest guys you're likely to meet, unless you happen to be on the Atkin's diet or have a general aversion to decadent baked goods that don't scrimp on the good stuff. I stoped by to chat with Billy and check out the meanest cupcakes and cocunut cream pie this side of Bleeker street.

TCR: Now Billy, I'm not sure if you're aware of this, but you've opened a bakery in a very gay neighborhood.

BR: Yeah, I've noticed that. But we're on 9th instead of 8th, so it's a little less intense. We get a lot of gay men, lots of families, our place has a nice neighborhood feel to it.

TCR: So what's this place all about, let's talk about the menu.

BR: I wanted to capture a very Americana type feel. Very mid-twentieth century comfort foods that expand beyond just cakes and cupcakes.

TCR: So, are all the recipes you use here your own?

BR: Well, some were mine, some were from a friend of mine who's bakes here, and a lot of them are from my mom.

TCR: Ah, mom! I love that!

BR: She helped me get things going here. She's amazing.

TCR: Now, let's talk about the food I'm looking at. Talk me through some of your specialties.

BR: Well, our biggest seller is banana cake with cream cheese frosting. The only thing I can assume is that people think that because there are bananas in it, then it's somehow slightly more healthy than something covered in chocolate.

TCR: It's a nice idea, anyway. Now, what is hand's down the most unhealthy thing you've got going on in here?

BR: Oooh, the Hello Dolly bar. Well, it's got chocolate chips, butterscotch chips, coconut, pecans, a heavy crust. . . and it's all covered in condensed milk.

TCR: That's all?

BR: Yeah. We've also got this great peanut butter chocolate pie, and some nice cream pies-coconut and banana- and an amazing pineapple upside down cake, which is a classic Mom recipe.

TCR: I'll take a coconut cream pie home with me, please, and these lemon bar things, whatever they are. Now, what about the décor. . . it's like a Donna Reed fantasy. Like the perfect kitchen you're grandma never had. . .

BR: I designed the place top to bottom, but I've been collecting this stuff for years.

TCR: Do people come in here asking for lowfat, vegan wares? The Hello Dolly doesn't sound particularly Atkins friendly.

BR: Well, by it's very nature this kind of comfort food isn't going to be very Atkins friendly. And if you're going to have a delicious dessert or an amazing baked good, then why not go all out?

TCR: Exactly, this is the real deal. Treat yourself right. Now, box some of these cupcakes up, I'll take them with me.

- T. Cole Rachel